Jojo loves Puglia

I stumbled upon the enchanting region of Puglia under rather adventurous circumstances back in 2012, when I took part in a charity event, a four-day cycling ride on a road bike that took me from the historic site of Olympia in southern Greece, ending in the city of Bari. The final leg led me through rustic, gnarly yet picturesque olive groves, dotted with peculiar, pointy, white-painted houses known as Trulli, a discovery that instantly left me wanting to see more.

Puglia, the "heel" of Italy's boot, beckoned with its rugged coastline, abundant sunshine, and postcard-perfect towns that seem straight out of a dream. It has this sort of magical energy that just leaves you feeling inspired but also rather zenned out.

We returned years later, the weekend before our wedding, and fell in love all over again, so much so that we even started eyeing up property prices. More recently we went back for a two-week holiday with our little girls, and really had time to settle in and explore. The locals are so friendly and welcoming, and they genuinely adore children, or "piccolinos" as they're so fondly known.

Ostuni

I'm going to go as far as to say that Ostuni, Puglia's "White City", is one of the most glorious places I have ever been. Walk the cobbled streets and labyrinth of alleys, let your senses guide your feet, and soak up the history of this beautiful (and in parts very steep and slippery) old town. Ladies, leave the heels at home!

Fresh local produce, artisanal meat, cheese, olive oil and wine make Ostuni the perfect example of why Puglia is coined the breadbasket of Italy. We filled our greedy boots with pizza and countless servings of orecchiette, washed down with the local Puglian red.

• Pre-dinner drinks, Pausa Café; sit on the steps for sundowners.
• Dinner, Il Posto Affianco for insanely good pizza (book a table outside).
• After dinner, Riccardo's; floor cushions cover the alleys and music spills out all around you.
• Ice cream, Cremeria Alla Scala; the kids (and us, honestly) would return to Puglia for this gelateria alone.

Alberobello

You simply can't say you've visited Puglia if you don't see a trullo. The traditional white, cone-shaped houses are constructed using the drywall technique still in use across the region, and the absolute best place to admire them is the world-heritage town of Alberobello. It's truly special and magical, but it gets busy with tourists, so go early in the day or later in the evening.

Monopoli

An old port town with the most stunning views of the sea, dotted with little red and blue fishing boats. A must-see is Castello di Carlo V, a 16th-century fortress on the Punta Pinna near the Old Port. Wander back to the old town through white cobbled streets to the main square, drink Aperols, and watch the world go by. Some streets carry artwork by local artists, making Porto Antico one of the most photogenic corners of Monopoli.

• Dinner, La Locanda sul Porto (the seafood and tiramisu!).
• Drinks, Tuttoapposto Winebar; get there early to bag the window seat.

Cisternino

A small but totally charming town that has remained intact for centuries. Whitewashed houses, narrow shady streets, historic churches and an elegant central piazza open onto panoramic viewpoints over rolling hills and white-tipped trulli. We arrived just before sunset as the locals came out for their evening passeggiata, and the atmosphere became almost hedonistic, everyone seems to smile.

• Pre-dinner, Chirico Bistro made me the most delicious margarita as we watched the sunset.
• Dinner, Osteria Bell'Italia, beyond words delicious; book to sit outside under twinkling vines.
• Dinner, Le Chicche di Zia Rosa, for mouth-watering aubergine parmigiana down a narrow side street.

Final notes & tips

The scattered layout of towns and beaches means having a car is essential. Puglia has two international airports, Bari and Brindisi, both on the east coast. As one of the poorer regions of Italy, you may notice a contrast between newer construction and the breathtaking historic centres, so adjust your expectations slightly, but the historic hearts of these towns absolutely warrant a visit. Puglia, with its unique blend of history, culture and natural beauty, has left an indelible mark on our hearts.